Top-Down Hallowig

Lucy's head is bigger than my doll, but the doll stays still longer.

My first Hallowig did not fit my niece, Lucy (she is 21 months and dressing as Dora the Explorer this Halloween). I've de-constructed the pattern and re-jigged it from the top-down, so if it is too short I can go back and add length, and if it is too long I can rip it back. Just one caveat - this is a more fiddly way to make the Hallowig, so beginners beware. Actually, here's another. I'm rushing this so you can use it before Halloween, but I haven't had the chance to knit a second version to check the pattern. If there are some small errors, I apologize. 

Notes
I used sport weight yarn (1 skein Cascade 220 Sport Superwash) and 2 circular 3.5mm needles.

Materials
Locking stitch markers
Yarn, see pattern for size
2 circular needles, see pattern for size (or a set of 5 double pointed needles)
scrap yarn
crochet hook

Special Techniques
Lifted Increases (LL1, LLP1, RL1, RLP1)
Crocheted Provisional Cast-On
Knititng on 2 Circular Needles

Abbreviations
K ....... Knit
LL1 ... Left Lifted Increase
LLP1 . Left Lifted Purlwise Increase
P ....... Purl
PM ..... Place Marker on needle
RL1 .... Right Lifted Increase
RLP1 .. Right Lifted Purlwise Increase
SLM ... Slip marker
St/s ... Stitch/es

Directions
With scrap yarn, provisionally cast on 23 sts. knit 1 row with your working  yarn. remove provisional cast on and pick up sts on another needle. With right side facing, knit these stitches.  (46 sts)

From here on out you'll be knitting in the round on 2 circular needles (or you can work in the round on a set of 5 double pointed needles). 

R1. *PM, k4, PM, p1, (k2, p1) 6 times; rep from * one more time . (46 sts)

R2. *SLM, k1, LL1, k to 1 st before marker, RL1, k1, SLM, p1, RLP1, (k2, P1, RLP1) 5 times, k2, RLP1, p1; rep from * to end of round.  (64 sts).

R3. *K1, LL1, k1, p2, k1, RL1, k1, SLM, work in pattern to next marker, SLM; rep from *one more time. (68 sts)

R4. *K1, LLP1, k2, p2, k2, RLP1, k1, SLM, work in pattern to next marker, SLM; rep from * one more time. (72 sts)

R5. *K1, LLP1, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, RLP1, k1, SLM, work in pattern to next marker, SLM; rep from *one more time. (76 sts)

R6. *K1, LL1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, RL1, k1, SLM, work in pattern to next marker, SLM; rep from *one more time. (80 sts)

R7 to 18. Continue to increase in this manner, maintaining the rib stitch, until there are 38 sts between first two markers (total of 16 increase rounds). (128 sts)

Work in rib until bangs measure appropriate length (based on original pattern: approx another 2"/10 rounds in yarn at a tension of 5.5 rows per inch). 

If you aren't sure how long the bangs should be, continue to knit the 32 bang sts (see below) separately and then you can either rip them back if they need to be shorter, or add more length if they aren't long enough. Seam the sides of the bangs to the main portion using mattress stitch.

Next row: knit 3, cast off 32 sts, knit 3, work in rib to end of row. 

Working back and forth, work in rib as established for length preferred (6.5" based on original pattern). 

Cast off loosely.

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